Winter Storage

Winter Storage

As a former small engine mechanic who has made a
LOT of money making engines run again after five
or six months storage, here's my take:

Gas stabilizer. Run engine long enough to fill
carbs or fuel injection. Carb engines, run carbs
dry to relieve pressure on float needle seating surface.
Note I don't drain my Carbs & no problems yet

Change oil, run engine or pull plugs and crank.
You want the cleanest oil you can get in the bearings,
to prevent chemical corrosion of the bearing materials.

Install battery maintainer and crank engine over
one turn every two weeks.
Don't start it, this is to keep seals from
sticking on shafts. Oxides may form on contact points.
Clutch may bind. Pull the handle when you crank
over. Don't start, but if you can crank in gear, do.

You need to unstick the clutch plate from the
flywheel, which means turning the transmission input
shaft in relation to the engine.

Another way to keep the clutch loose if on the
center stand is to pull in the clutch, in gear, with
the rear wheel off the ground, and kick the wheel to spin it.

Work both brakes, to keep actuators and pistons from sticking.

Put on center stand to unload wheels, or do something
to make it possible to spin the wheels a turn or so once a
month.

This works for hot climates, and will work better
in cold ones.

The maintainer should keep the battery from
freezing, if it is fully charged, since that is the
strongest sulfuric acid concentration.

Type @ Ya'll Later Night_Wolf

Spinning Canada